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Here you can see how far I rode on each day. I've given each day a difficulty rating (1=very easy, 5=very hard). Where that rating has been affected by distance or climate I've tried to acknowledge it in my comments.
I've also included information on places to eat or sleep, but only if I knew for sure that they were there. If nothing's mentioned don't assume that there's nothing there, unless I specifically state that. I did this trip from Jan. to Nov. 2004, so keep in mind that things could have opened up or closed down since then.
Hope some of you find this useful.


Abbreviations and terms used in chart:
ab. = about Est. = Estancia ripio = (Spanish word for a rough gravel road) w/ = with
hilly = Steepish hills more or less equally up and down
rolling = Smaller or very gradual hills more or less equally up and down

Tierra del Fuego (Jan./Feb. 2004)
DAY START FINISH DISTANCE
(KM.)
AVG. SPEED
(KM/HR)
DIFFICULTY COMMENTS
1 Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego campsite ab. 10 km E of Ushuaia 33.84 17.2 2 Ups and downs
2 " Est. Los Alamos campground 77.84 16.6 3 Big climb @ ab. 30 km, then generally flat. Paved for first 30 km.
3 " Estancia Tepi 69.99 14.2 4 Medium headwind. In tolhuin, eat at Panaderia La Union. Paved after Tolhuin. Est. Tepi is 4 km off road, tough climbs.
5 " Est. Punta Maria 46.67 11.9 4 Strong headwind from NW. Mostly flat. We were able to sleep & buy bread at Est. Punta Maria
6 " Rio Grande 42.1 18 1 We left early, beat wind. Stayed at Club Aquatico, recommended.
8 " San Sebastian, Argentina 82.55 12.1 4 Strong headwind. Flat, boring. A couple of estancias.
9 " 30 km W of San Sebastian, Chile 43.06 9.5 5 Strong headwind. Mostly flat. Camped in a field. Nowhere to get food.
10 " ab. 40 km E of Porvenir 73.93 11.6 5 Wind picked up at ab. 8:45 am. Died ab. 8:30 pm. Strong headwind. Est. @ 50 km
" 11 Porvenir 44.3 10.6 5 Ups and downs, some very steep. Sheltered a bit from wind ab. 10 km from Porvenir
14 " Porvenir ferry 6.04 12.5 1 Easy riding to ferry, and from Punta Arenas ferry to hotel.

Patagonia (Feb. - Apr. 2004)
DAY START FINISH DISTANCE
(KM.)
AVG. SPEED
(KM/HR)
DIFFICULTY COMMENTS
17 Punta Arenas ab. 80 km N of Punta Arenas 79.79 14.9 3 Strong wind from left side. Some hills.
18 " Morro Chico 71.65 20.1 2 Slept on roadside for 8 hrs wating for headwind to die @ 8:00 pm. Only a 2 because we avoided the wind.
19 " Puerto Natales 104.45 21.3 2 Gradually a bit more hills, generall downhill to Puerto Natales
26 " Cueva del Milodon 37.19 13.6 2 Went ab. 5 km wrong way, + 5 km back. Mostly ripio, some hills.
27 " Cerro Castillo 54.88 14.9 3 More up than down. Dusty. Can camp in grassy plaza, just ask carabineros. Lots of washboard.
28 " El Cerrito, Argentina 121.45 16.6 3 Very rough road w/ rocks & washboard. Might be a new paved one now. Gas station @ Tepi Aike
29 " El Calafate 97.8 12.2 3 Headwind all day. After a 8 km downhill it's more up than down. Hotel @ Rio Bote
32 " Parque Los Glaciares 71.17 15.5 2 Headwind, paved until park
33 " Moreno Glacier (and back) 17.53 12.9 2 Ripio on unloaded bikes
34 Parque Los Glaciares just outside park 26.53 13.1 3 Camped on roadside just after where pavement started
35 " El Calafate 45.02 19.7 2 Easy ride, nice views of lake
37 " ab. 80 km out of El Calafate 78.01 19.1 2 Paved & easy for 25 km. Then turn onto #40, mostly packed ripio, some washboard
38 " 100 km to El Chalten 47.24 15.1 3 Headwind & ripio. Parador La Leona @ ab. 20 km( hotel & food)
39 " ab. 50 km to El Chalten 51.56 11.7 5 Very strong headwind. Road was being paved. Muddy parts. Got water @ one est. and slept @ another.
40 " El Chalten 48.13 9.6 5 Strong headwind. Loose rocks on road. No food. Uphill entering park.
46 " Lago del Desierto 36.55 13.6 2 Ripio. Beautiful.
47 " El Chalten 35.31 14.1 2 Many breakdowns.
overland by bus to Perito Moreno, Argentina
52 Perito Moreno Chile Chico 74.6 17.7 2 paved
53 " ab. 50 km W of Chile Chico 47.36 9.1 5 Steep climb out of Chile Chico. Steep ups & downs after. Rough ripio. House @ ab. 40 km where we got water. Beautiful.
54 " Puerto Guadal 63.08 10.6 5 Rough ripio. Steep ups & downs. More flats after 25 km. Food store @ Grande Mallin.
Overland by bus to Coyhaique, Chile
58 Coyhaique ab. 14 km out of Coyhaique 13.97 9.8 2 Paved climb out of Coyhaique, then ripio. Camped in yard of German man named Guntar.
59 " ab. 15 km N or Villa Manhueles 73.2 12.7 3 Hilly ripio, then paved. Pavement ends just after Villa Manhueles. Slept under bridge.
60 " just N of Villa Amengual 53.02 13.2 3 Good ripio. Hilly.
61 " Queulat National Park 45.83 11.2 4 Long climb into park. Ripio. Beautiful.
62 " ab. 20 km N of Puyhuapi 67.94 15.1 3 Long ripio downhill leaving park, then ups & downs. Puyhuapi (full ameneties) @ ab. 45 km. Slept under bridge.
63 " ab. 25 km N of La Junta 52.1 12.6 3 Ripio. Rained all day. Full ameneties in La Junta. Slept in a small bus shelter.
64 " Vanguardia 16.34 10.6 3
Bus, ferry and another bus to Bariloche, Argentina

Central Argentina
DAY START FINISH DISTANCE
(KM.)
AVG. SPEED
(KM/HR)
DIFFICULTY COMMENTS
79 Bariloche 15 km out of Bariloche 15.03 18.8 1 Windy. Great bridge to camp under.
80 " Villa La Angostura 71.44 15.1 3 Very cold. Small hospedaje w/ snacks 20 km from Villa Angostura.
81 " Hospedaje Siete Lagos 29.64 12.9 3 Good packed dirt road. Many ups & downs.
82 " ab. 20 km to San Martin de los Andes 64.87 13.3 2 Good ripio. Climbs gradually for ab. 15 km. Paved after 40 km, then long downhill. Cabanas near bridge @ ab. 55 km. Unmarked campground 10 km later. Beautiful.
83 " San Martin de los Andes 23.7 20 1 Up a couple of small hills, then downhill to town.
85 " Junin de los Andes 45.14 21.8 1 Tailwind. Easy rolling hills. Paved.
86 " 100 km out of Junin de Los Andes 100.76 17.5 2 4 km climb out of town, then long descent. Slept in ditch.
87 " Zapala 111.17 16.4 2 Long downhill to start. School @ 25 km, can get water. Seeral climbs closer to Zapala, then downhill to town.
88 " Cutral Co 80.66 22.8 1 Almost all downhill
89 " Neuquen 117.2 16.4 2 Flat. Hotel w/ restaurant somewhere in middle.
90 " Chelforo 144.42 23.7 2 Town (gral. Godery) @ 81 km. Smaller Villa Regina 10 km later. Flat.
91 " ab. 20 km past Choele Choel 108.6 26.7 1 Strong tailwind. Small climb out of Choele Choel. Rest flat. Town of Colonel Belisle @ 50 km.
92 " Rio Colorado 124.56 25.3 1 Flat. Boring. Tailwind
93 " Medanos 137.71 22.7 1 Most villages are ab. 5 km off road and totally close during siesta. Town of Nicolas Lavalle has nothing.
94 " Bahia Blanca 49.26 18.8 2 Cool ramshackle zoo 10 km from Bahia Blanca
96 " Coronel Dorego 91.32 22.3 2 Tailwind
97 " Copetonas 98.76 19 2 Got lost in backroads via El Perdido. Strong sidewind on hwy. #3
98 " San Francisco de Bellocq 84 14 3 Don't try to cycle along beach. Took dirt farmroads. Got lost.
99 " Necochea 122.91 18 2 Flat. Boring. Gets dark just after 6:00 pm.
100 " Miramar 105.99 17.2 2 Bad pavement, many potholes. Miramar is 17 km from highway.
102 " Playa Luna Roja 24.63 17 2 Nice ride along coast. Conosur surf camp @ Playa Luna Roja is awesome.
103 " Mar del Plata 29.53 14.9 2 Urban riding
106 " Villa Gesell 118.66 20.3 2 tailwind
107 " San Bernardo 81.36 18.5 2
108 " Pepinas 214.11 25 1 San Clemente @ 46 km. YPF @ 105 km. Strong tailwind. Slept on sidewalk.
109 " La Plata 113.28 23.6 1 Rural until turnoff to La Plata. Tailwind.
Overland by car to Buenos Aires, ferry to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

Uruguay and Misiones (May - July 2004)
DAY START FINISH DISTANCE
(KM.)
AVG. SPEED
(KM/HR)
DIFFICULTY COMMENTS
122 Colonia del Sacramento Rincon del Pino 103.04 22 2 Constantly rolling hills. Slept outside local country club.
123 " Montevideo 104.14 19.4 3 Many long, very gradual uphills.
171 " Santa Lucia 90.87 17.2 3 Rolling, felt like more up than down. Santa Lucia has free campsite near river.
172 " ab. 45 km past San Jose de Mayo 82.09 19.8 2 Rolling. Ful ameneties in San Jose. Ab. 8 km before Rio San Gregorio is a restaurant where they let me camp.
173 " Lago Artificial Paso del Palmar 106.62 17.3 3 Rolling. Not much @ Andresito, but there's a campground 4 km further on lake.
174 " Young 73.64 16.8 3 Rolling. Campground @ ab. 53 km on river.
Overland by car to Paysandu
185 Paysandu Colon, Argentina 38.84 14.3 2 Must walk your bike across international bridge. I also went past Colon to highway and back.
186 " Paysandu 21.26 12.2 2
Overland by truck to Leandro Alem, Argentina
190 Leandro Alem Santa Ana 49.66 18.2 2 More down than up. Can buy food, probably find accoms in Bonpland @ ab. 25 km.
191 " San Ignacio 20.32 14.5 3 Hilly
192 " Ruiz de Montoya 63.78 13.4 4 Very hilly. Headwind. Very busy road, no shoulder. You'll hate trucks.
193 " ab. 15 km S of Montecarlo 57.96 13.4 4 Took backroads to Puerto Rico. Packed dirt, some steep climbs, beautiful. Highway very hilly. Headwind. Great campground near La Misionerita.
195 " Puerto Esperanza 85.14 14.1 4 Very hilly. Headwind.
196 " Puerto Iguazu 58.8 16.3 3 Generally flatter, but still hilly.
198 " Foz do Iguacu, Brazil 14.23 15.5 2

Paraguay, Bolivia and Peru (July - Sept. 2004)
DAY START FINISH DISTANCE
(KM.)
AVG. SPEED
(KM/HR)
DIFFICULTY COMMENTS
199 Foz do Iguacu Mallerquin, Paraguay 77.14 17.5 3 Chaotic international bridge, use sidewalk. Road was wet & oily in places, very slippery. Rolling.
200 " Caaguazu 87.07 16.4 3 Mostly rolling farmland. Large shoulder but covered in speed bumps. Stupid.
201 " Itacurubi de la Cordillera 95.74 20.1 3 Rolling. By now you'll be sick of cumbia music.
202 " Asuncion 88.14 18.9 2 Some brilliant descents.
Overland by bus to Potosi, Bolivia
213 Potosi Agua Castillo 50.7 9.9 5 Very hilly, rough road. Altitude makes it very tough. Nowhere to get food.
214 " ab. 10 km. before Ticatica 66.05 11.7 5 Relatively flat, then downhill to start. Can get water in Chapilla. Lots of bad washboard.
215 " Pulacayo 79.14 10.1 5 Horrific road, sandy washboard. Long, brake-heavy downhill to Ticatica, small stores. Very hard climb to Pulacayo.
216 " Uyuni 20.54 12.5 3 Climb for ab. 8 km, then all downhill.
217 " Colchani 21.75 10.4 3 Take road, not trail along train tracks. Very sandy. Flat, but headwind.
218 " Isla Incahuasi 81.46 19.9 2 Beautiful but boring. Relentlessly flat. Surreal. Track is easy to follow once you're on it. Can camp on island. Also expensive salt hotel @ 15 km.
219 " Jirira 48.88 19.3 2 Just headed toward volcano and eventually found track to Jirira
Overland by bus to La Paz, taxi to El Alto
227 El Alto Huarina 66.13 14.6 3 Headwind. Relatively flat.
229 " Huatajata 7.33 15.1 2 Rolling hills
230 " San Pablo 28.44 16 3 Small ups & downs, then big climb w/ great view of lake.
231 " Copacabana 42.01 13.8 3 Steep climb out of town, then one more gradual. Down a bit, then another longish climb, then steep descnet into Copacabana.
234 " Juli, Peru 62.45 15.9 3 Much easier than I expected. Smallish hills.
235 " 9 km out of Juli & back 18.25 13.9 2 Downhill out of town, then flat. We turned back because our friend was sick.
Overland by bus to Puno
237 Puno Pucara 109 20.8 3 Big climb out of Puno, then long descent. Rest is flat.
238 " Santa Rosa 96.28 18.6 2 Flat & paved. Full ameneties in Ayaviri.
239 " ab. 25 km to Sicuani 37.89 14.6 3 Paved. Most of way is a very gradual uphill. Steeper nearing Abra la Raya, then fast descent. Hot springs ab. 5 km after Abra la Raya.
240 " Combapata 67.4 20.7 2 Mostly downhill to Sicuani, then flat. Short descent into Combapata. Paved.
241 " Urcos 63.35 20.1 2 Mostly slightly downhill. Paved.
242 " Cusco 48.16 16.1 3 Fairly flat, then steady urban climb into Cusco. Paved.
Overland by bus to Huanuco
253 Huanuco Tingo Maria 123.54 17.2 4 Gently rolling for 10 km, then steady climb for ab. 40 km. Several roadside fruit vendors. After tunnel there's an amazing 45 km descent. Generally flat for last 35 km.
255 " El Boqueron 83.33 10.5 5 Paved for 10 km, then rough climb for ab. 30 km. Bad road, very tough. Then rocky descent. Road was being paved, at the time passage was restricted to limited hours.
256 " Aguaytia 16.06 22.4 1 Paved, flat. Pavement began just before El Boqueron.
258 " San Alejandro 52.85 11.5 Pavement ends just out of Aguaytia.
Overland by car to Pucallpa, air to Iquitos and boat to Manaus, Brazil

Brazil and Venezuela (Sept. - Nov. 2004)
DAY START FINISH DISTANCE
(KM.)
AVG. SPEED
(KM/HR)
DIFFICULTY COMMENTS
277 Manaus Presidente Figueiredo 130.34 16.6 5 Very hilly & very hot. Long day made it arduous. Last restaurant was at 35 km but 2 more were being built further along. Would be much easier in 2 days. I recommend chilling for a day @ Parque Urubui near Presidente Figueiredo.
279 " Waimiri Atroari Indian Reserve 108.99 17 4 More or less flattens out after 30 km. Very hot. It's the heat that makes it hard. See note on Waimiri Atroari Indian Reserve at bottom of page.
Overland by truck through Waimiri Atroari Indian Reserve
280 Waimiri Atroari Indian Reserve Rorainopolis 138.62 17.5 4 Food in Vila Ecuador @ 45 km. Food iin Vila Nova Colonia (@ 100 km) but no accomodations. Length made this day tortuous. Would be better in 2 days.
281 " Novo Paraiso 36.36 16.8 3 My thermometer read 29 degrees, which in my journal I described as "relatively cool." Very hot.
282 " Caracarai 125.35 20 3 Flat. Restaurant @ 52 km. Few small hills start @ 70 km. Restaurants in Petrolina (@ 85 km) but no accomodations. Cool day, likely much harder in heat.
283 " Boa Vista 144.02 17.2 4 Slightly uphill to Macajai (full ameneties). Then flat for 55 km w/ no shade to Boa Vista. Long & hot.
285 " ab. 137 km north of Boa Vista 136.96 18.8 3 Mostly flat. Plae to camp @ 85 km, just after river. Snacks & water @ 60 km. Restaurant & hotel (30 reals/night) @ km. 102. More restaurants 5 & 35 km later. 2nd let me camp out back.
286 " Santa Elena de Uairen, Venezuela 103.18 15.7 5 Flt @ easy for 35 km, then hills begin. Not extremely hard until km 70. Restaurant @ km 70. Long steep climb to border, then easy ride to Santa Elena.
288 " Kama Falls 117.89 17.4 3 Hills all day. Small village @ 50 km, don't count on food. Big climbs @ 36 km & 50 km. Cabanas & camping @ Kama Falls.
289 " Kilometro 88 119.03 18.3 2 Rolling for 70 km. Snacks & water @ 25 km. Fast, twisting descent starts @ km. 75 right after Guardia Nacional checkpoint. Ab. 35 km downhill in all, w/ short steep climb in middle.
290 " El Dorado 88.96 19.2 2 Gently rolling all day.
291 " Guasipati 126.94 19.1 2 Gently rolling. A couple of longer hills closer to Guasipati. Very hot.
292 " Upata 104.18 19.9 2 Rolling. 8 km hill @ km 80, then downhill.
293 " Puerto Ordaz 78.06 20.6 2 Downhill & very easy to Ciudad Guayana. Climb into city, descend to river, then climb into Puerto Ordaz.
294 " Ciudad Bolivar 105.06 23.9 1 Very gently rolling, almost flat. Strong tailwind all day.
296 " El Tigre 139.08 19.6 1 May or may not be allowed to cycle across bridge. Generall flat, very boring. Restaurants @ km 40, 60, 66, 82 & 85 (all distances are from the bridge).
297 " Anaco 71.51 19 2 Gently rolling for 30 km, then flat. Narrow road, usually no shoulder. Take freeway @ km 30, huge shoulder.
298 " Barcelona 89.74 21.1 1 Gradual, easy hills. Good shoulder. Several restaurants.
299 " Puerto La Cruz 16.05 18.7 1 Very urban. Lots of traffic.


Note on Waimiri Atroari Indian Reserve:
Although I heard all sorts of contradicting rumours, it is forbidden to enter the reserve by bicycle. Just before the reserve (coming form the south) is a gas station (where they said I could camp) and two restaurants (one said I could camp there). I hitched a ride with a trucker who took me to a hotel just on the other side of the reserve. For more info on the reserve, contact FUNAI, Brazil's Indian Affairs Agency, who have an office in Manaus, but not in Presidente Figueiredo despite what you may hear.