Here you can see how far I rode on each day. I've given each day a difficulty rating (1=very easy, 5=very hard). Where that rating has been affected by distance or climate I've tried to acknowledge it in my comments.
I've also included information on places to eat or sleep, but only if I knew for sure that they were there. If nothing's mentioned don't assume that there's nothing there, unless I specifically state that. I did this trip from Jan. to Nov. 2004, so keep in mind that things could have opened up or closed down since then.
Hope some of you find this useful.
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DAY | START | FINISH | DISTANCE (KM.) |
AVG. SPEED (KM/HR) |
DIFFICULTY | COMMENTS |
1 | Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego | campsite ab. 10 km E of Ushuaia | 33.84 | 17.2 | 2 | Ups and downs |
2 | " | Est. Los Alamos campground | 77.84 | 16.6 | 3 | Big climb @ ab. 30 km, then generally flat. Paved for first 30 km. |
3 | " | Estancia Tepi | 69.99 | 14.2 | 4 | Medium headwind. In tolhuin, eat at Panaderia La Union. Paved after Tolhuin. Est. Tepi is 4 km off road, tough climbs. |
5 | " | Est. Punta Maria | 46.67 | 11.9 | 4 | Strong headwind from NW. Mostly flat. We were able to sleep & buy bread at Est. Punta Maria |
6 | " | Rio Grande | 42.1 | 18 | 1 | We left early, beat wind. Stayed at Club Aquatico, recommended. |
8 | " | San Sebastian, Argentina | 82.55 | 12.1 | 4 | Strong headwind. Flat, boring. A couple of estancias. |
9 | " | 30 km W of San Sebastian, Chile | 43.06 | 9.5 | 5 | Strong headwind. Mostly flat. Camped in a field. Nowhere to get food. |
10 | " | ab. 40 km E of Porvenir | 73.93 | 11.6 | 5 | Wind picked up at ab. 8:45 am. Died ab. 8:30 pm. Strong headwind. Est. @ 50 km |
" | 11 | Porvenir | 44.3 | 10.6 | 5 | Ups and downs, some very steep. Sheltered a bit from wind ab. 10 km from Porvenir |
14 | " | Porvenir ferry | 6.04 | 12.5 | 1 | Easy riding to ferry, and from Punta Arenas ferry to hotel. |
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DAY | START | FINISH | DISTANCE (KM.) |
AVG. SPEED (KM/HR) |
DIFFICULTY | COMMENTS |
17 | Punta Arenas | ab. 80 km N of Punta Arenas | 79.79 | 14.9 | 3 | Strong wind from left side. Some hills. |
18 | " | Morro Chico | 71.65 | 20.1 | 2 | Slept on roadside for 8 hrs wating for headwind to die @ 8:00 pm. Only a 2 because we avoided the wind. |
19 | " | Puerto Natales | 104.45 | 21.3 | 2 | Gradually a bit more hills, generall downhill to Puerto Natales |
26 | " | Cueva del Milodon | 37.19 | 13.6 | 2 | Went ab. 5 km wrong way, + 5 km back. Mostly ripio, some hills. |
27 | " | Cerro Castillo | 54.88 | 14.9 | 3 | More up than down. Dusty. Can camp in grassy plaza, just ask carabineros. Lots of washboard. |
28 | " | El Cerrito, Argentina | 121.45 | 16.6 | 3 | Very rough road w/ rocks & washboard. Might be a new paved one now. Gas station @ Tepi Aike |
29 | " | El Calafate | 97.8 | 12.2 | 3 | Headwind all day. After a 8 km downhill it's more up than down. Hotel @ Rio Bote |
32 | " | Parque Los Glaciares | 71.17 | 15.5 | 2 | Headwind, paved until park |
33 | " | Moreno Glacier (and back) | 17.53 | 12.9 | 2 | Ripio on unloaded bikes |
34 | Parque Los Glaciares | just outside park | 26.53 | 13.1 | 3 | Camped on roadside just after where pavement started |
35 | " | El Calafate | 45.02 | 19.7 | 2 | Easy ride, nice views of lake |
37 | " | ab. 80 km out of El Calafate | 78.01 | 19.1 | 2 | Paved & easy for 25 km. Then turn onto #40, mostly packed ripio, some washboard |
38 | " | 100 km to El Chalten | 47.24 | 15.1 | 3 | Headwind & ripio. Parador La Leona @ ab. 20 km( hotel & food) |
39 | " | ab. 50 km to El Chalten | 51.56 | 11.7 | 5 | Very strong headwind. Road was being paved. Muddy parts. Got water @ one est. and slept @ another. |
40 | " | El Chalten | 48.13 | 9.6 | 5 | Strong headwind. Loose rocks on road. No food. Uphill entering park. |
46 | " | Lago del Desierto | 36.55 | 13.6 | 2 | Ripio. Beautiful. |
47 | " | El Chalten | 35.31 | 14.1 | 2 | Many breakdowns. |
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52 | Perito Moreno | Chile Chico | 74.6 | 17.7 | 2 | paved |
53 | " | ab. 50 km W of Chile Chico | 47.36 | 9.1 | 5 | Steep climb out of Chile Chico. Steep ups & downs after. Rough ripio. House @ ab. 40 km where we got water. Beautiful. |
54 | " | Puerto Guadal | 63.08 | 10.6 | 5 | Rough ripio. Steep ups & downs. More flats after 25 km. Food store @ Grande Mallin. |
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58 | Coyhaique | ab. 14 km out of Coyhaique | 13.97 | 9.8 | 2 | Paved climb out of Coyhaique, then ripio. Camped in yard of German man named Guntar. |
59 | " | ab. 15 km N or Villa Manhueles | 73.2 | 12.7 | 3 | Hilly ripio, then paved. Pavement ends just after Villa Manhueles. Slept under bridge. |
60 | " | just N of Villa Amengual | 53.02 | 13.2 | 3 | Good ripio. Hilly. |
61 | " | Queulat National Park | 45.83 | 11.2 | 4 | Long climb into park. Ripio. Beautiful. |
62 | " | ab. 20 km N of Puyhuapi | 67.94 | 15.1 | 3 | Long ripio downhill leaving park, then ups & downs. Puyhuapi (full ameneties) @ ab. 45 km. Slept under bridge. |
63 | " | ab. 25 km N of La Junta | 52.1 | 12.6 | 3 | Ripio. Rained all day. Full ameneties in La Junta. Slept in a small bus shelter. |
64 | " | Vanguardia | 16.34 | 10.6 | 3 | |
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DAY | START | FINISH | DISTANCE (KM.) |
AVG. SPEED (KM/HR) |
DIFFICULTY | COMMENTS |
79 | Bariloche | 15 km out of Bariloche | 15.03 | 18.8 | 1 | Windy. Great bridge to camp under. |
80 | " | Villa La Angostura | 71.44 | 15.1 | 3 | Very cold. Small hospedaje w/ snacks 20 km from Villa Angostura. |
81 | " | Hospedaje Siete Lagos | 29.64 | 12.9 | 3 | Good packed dirt road. Many ups & downs. |
82 | " | ab. 20 km to San Martin de los Andes | 64.87 | 13.3 | 2 | Good ripio. Climbs gradually for ab. 15 km. Paved after 40 km, then long downhill. Cabanas near bridge @ ab. 55 km. Unmarked campground 10 km later. Beautiful. |
83 | " | San Martin de los Andes | 23.7 | 20 | 1 | Up a couple of small hills, then downhill to town. |
85 | " | Junin de los Andes | 45.14 | 21.8 | 1 | Tailwind. Easy rolling hills. Paved. |
86 | " | 100 km out of Junin de Los Andes | 100.76 | 17.5 | 2 | 4 km climb out of town, then long descent. Slept in ditch. |
87 | " | Zapala | 111.17 | 16.4 | 2 | Long downhill to start. School @ 25 km, can get water. Seeral climbs closer to Zapala, then downhill to town. |
88 | " | Cutral Co | 80.66 | 22.8 | 1 | Almost all downhill |
89 | " | Neuquen | 117.2 | 16.4 | 2 | Flat. Hotel w/ restaurant somewhere in middle. |
90 | " | Chelforo | 144.42 | 23.7 | 2 | Town (gral. Godery) @ 81 km. Smaller Villa Regina 10 km later. Flat. |
91 | " | ab. 20 km past Choele Choel | 108.6 | 26.7 | 1 | Strong tailwind. Small climb out of Choele Choel. Rest flat. Town of Colonel Belisle @ 50 km. |
92 | " | Rio Colorado | 124.56 | 25.3 | 1 | Flat. Boring. Tailwind |
93 | " | Medanos | 137.71 | 22.7 | 1 | Most villages are ab. 5 km off road and totally close during siesta. Town of Nicolas Lavalle has nothing. |
94 | " | Bahia Blanca | 49.26 | 18.8 | 2 | Cool ramshackle zoo 10 km from Bahia Blanca |
96 | " | Coronel Dorego | 91.32 | 22.3 | 2 | Tailwind |
97 | " | Copetonas | 98.76 | 19 | 2 | Got lost in backroads via El Perdido. Strong sidewind on hwy. #3 |
98 | " | San Francisco de Bellocq | 84 | 14 | 3 | Don't try to cycle along beach. Took dirt farmroads. Got lost. |
99 | " | Necochea | 122.91 | 18 | 2 | Flat. Boring. Gets dark just after 6:00 pm. |
100 | " | Miramar | 105.99 | 17.2 | 2 | Bad pavement, many potholes. Miramar is 17 km from highway. |
102 | " | Playa Luna Roja | 24.63 | 17 | 2 | Nice ride along coast. Conosur surf camp @ Playa Luna Roja is awesome. |
103 | " | Mar del Plata | 29.53 | 14.9 | 2 | Urban riding |
106 | " | Villa Gesell | 118.66 | 20.3 | 2 | tailwind |
107 | " | San Bernardo | 81.36 | 18.5 | 2 | |
108 | " | Pepinas | 214.11 | 25 | 1 | San Clemente @ 46 km. YPF @ 105 km. Strong tailwind. Slept on sidewalk. |
109 | " | La Plata | 113.28 | 23.6 | 1 | Rural until turnoff to La Plata. Tailwind. |
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DAY | START | FINISH | DISTANCE (KM.) |
AVG. SPEED (KM/HR) |
DIFFICULTY | COMMENTS |
122 | Colonia del Sacramento | Rincon del Pino | 103.04 | 22 | 2 | Constantly rolling hills. Slept outside local country club. |
123 | " | Montevideo | 104.14 | 19.4 | 3 | Many long, very gradual uphills. |
171 | " | Santa Lucia | 90.87 | 17.2 | 3 | Rolling, felt like more up than down. Santa Lucia has free campsite near river. |
172 | " | ab. 45 km past San Jose de Mayo | 82.09 | 19.8 | 2 | Rolling. Ful ameneties in San Jose. Ab. 8 km before Rio San Gregorio is a restaurant where they let me camp. |
173 | " | Lago Artificial Paso del Palmar | 106.62 | 17.3 | 3 | Rolling. Not much @ Andresito, but there's a campground 4 km further on lake. |
174 | " | Young | 73.64 | 16.8 | 3 | Rolling. Campground @ ab. 53 km on river. |
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185 | Paysandu | Colon, Argentina | 38.84 | 14.3 | 2 | Must walk your bike across international bridge. I also went past Colon to highway and back. |
186 | " | Paysandu | 21.26 | 12.2 | 2 | |
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190 | Leandro Alem | Santa Ana | 49.66 | 18.2 | 2 | More down than up. Can buy food, probably find accoms in Bonpland @ ab. 25 km. |
191 | " | San Ignacio | 20.32 | 14.5 | 3 | Hilly |
192 | " | Ruiz de Montoya | 63.78 | 13.4 | 4 | Very hilly. Headwind. Very busy road, no shoulder. You'll hate trucks. |
193 | " | ab. 15 km S of Montecarlo | 57.96 | 13.4 | 4 | Took backroads to Puerto Rico. Packed dirt, some steep climbs, beautiful. Highway very hilly. Headwind. Great campground near La Misionerita. |
195 | " | Puerto Esperanza | 85.14 | 14.1 | 4 | Very hilly. Headwind. |
196 | " | Puerto Iguazu | 58.8 | 16.3 | 3 | Generally flatter, but still hilly. |
198 | " | Foz do Iguacu, Brazil | 14.23 | 15.5 | 2 |
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DAY | START | FINISH | DISTANCE (KM.) |
AVG. SPEED (KM/HR) |
DIFFICULTY | COMMENTS |
199 | Foz do Iguacu | Mallerquin, Paraguay | 77.14 | 17.5 | 3 | Chaotic international bridge, use sidewalk. Road was wet & oily in places, very slippery. Rolling. |
200 | " | Caaguazu | 87.07 | 16.4 | 3 | Mostly rolling farmland. Large shoulder but covered in speed bumps. Stupid. |
201 | " | Itacurubi de la Cordillera | 95.74 | 20.1 | 3 | Rolling. By now you'll be sick of cumbia music. |
202 | " | Asuncion | 88.14 | 18.9 | 2 | Some brilliant descents. |
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213 | Potosi | Agua Castillo | 50.7 | 9.9 | 5 | Very hilly, rough road. Altitude makes it very tough. Nowhere to get food. |
214 | " | ab. 10 km. before Ticatica | 66.05 | 11.7 | 5 | Relatively flat, then downhill to start. Can get water in Chapilla. Lots of bad washboard. |
215 | " | Pulacayo | 79.14 | 10.1 | 5 | Horrific road, sandy washboard. Long, brake-heavy downhill to Ticatica, small stores. Very hard climb to Pulacayo. |
216 | " | Uyuni | 20.54 | 12.5 | 3 | Climb for ab. 8 km, then all downhill. |
217 | " | Colchani | 21.75 | 10.4 | 3 | Take road, not trail along train tracks. Very sandy. Flat, but headwind. |
218 | " | Isla Incahuasi | 81.46 | 19.9 | 2 | Beautiful but boring. Relentlessly flat. Surreal. Track is easy to follow once you're on it. Can camp on island. Also expensive salt hotel @ 15 km. |
219 | " | Jirira | 48.88 | 19.3 | 2 | Just headed toward volcano and eventually found track to Jirira |
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227 | El Alto | Huarina | 66.13 | 14.6 | 3 | Headwind. Relatively flat. |
229 | " | Huatajata | 7.33 | 15.1 | 2 | Rolling hills |
230 | " | San Pablo | 28.44 | 16 | 3 | Small ups & downs, then big climb w/ great view of lake. |
231 | " | Copacabana | 42.01 | 13.8 | 3 | Steep climb out of town, then one more gradual. Down a bit, then another longish climb, then steep descnet into Copacabana. |
234 | " | Juli, Peru | 62.45 | 15.9 | 3 | Much easier than I expected. Smallish hills. |
235 | " | 9 km out of Juli & back | 18.25 | 13.9 | 2 | Downhill out of town, then flat. We turned back because our friend was sick. |
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237 | Puno | Pucara | 109 | 20.8 | 3 | Big climb out of Puno, then long descent. Rest is flat. |
238 | " | Santa Rosa | 96.28 | 18.6 | 2 | Flat & paved. Full ameneties in Ayaviri. |
239 | " | ab. 25 km to Sicuani | 37.89 | 14.6 | 3 | Paved. Most of way is a very gradual uphill. Steeper nearing Abra la Raya, then fast descent. Hot springs ab. 5 km after Abra la Raya. |
240 | " | Combapata | 67.4 | 20.7 | 2 | Mostly downhill to Sicuani, then flat. Short descent into Combapata. Paved. |
241 | " | Urcos | 63.35 | 20.1 | 2 | Mostly slightly downhill. Paved. |
242 | " | Cusco | 48.16 | 16.1 | 3 | Fairly flat, then steady urban climb into Cusco. Paved. |
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253 | Huanuco | Tingo Maria | 123.54 | 17.2 | 4 | Gently rolling for 10 km, then steady climb for ab. 40 km. Several roadside fruit vendors. After tunnel there's an amazing 45 km descent. Generally flat for last 35 km. |
255 | " | El Boqueron | 83.33 | 10.5 | 5 | Paved for 10 km, then rough climb for ab. 30 km. Bad road, very tough. Then rocky descent. Road was being paved, at the time passage was restricted to limited hours. |
256 | " | Aguaytia | 16.06 | 22.4 | 1 | Paved, flat. Pavement began just before El Boqueron. |
258 | " | San Alejandro | 52.85 | 11.5 | Pavement ends just out of Aguaytia. | |
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DAY | START | FINISH | DISTANCE (KM.) |
AVG. SPEED (KM/HR) |
DIFFICULTY | COMMENTS |
277 | Manaus | Presidente Figueiredo | 130.34 | 16.6 | 5 | Very hilly & very hot. Long day made it arduous. Last restaurant was at 35 km but 2 more were being built further along. Would be much easier in 2 days. I recommend chilling for a day @ Parque Urubui near Presidente Figueiredo. |
279 | " | Waimiri Atroari Indian Reserve | 108.99 | 17 | 4 | More or less flattens out after 30 km. Very hot. It's the heat that makes it hard. See note on Waimiri Atroari Indian Reserve at bottom of page. |
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280 | Waimiri Atroari Indian Reserve | Rorainopolis | 138.62 | 17.5 | 4 | Food in Vila Ecuador @ 45 km. Food iin Vila Nova Colonia (@ 100 km) but no accomodations. Length made this day tortuous. Would be better in 2 days. |
281 | " | Novo Paraiso | 36.36 | 16.8 | 3 | My thermometer read 29 degrees, which in my journal I described as "relatively cool." Very hot. |
282 | " | Caracarai | 125.35 | 20 | 3 | Flat. Restaurant @ 52 km. Few small hills start @ 70 km. Restaurants in Petrolina (@ 85 km) but no accomodations. Cool day, likely much harder in heat. |
283 | " | Boa Vista | 144.02 | 17.2 | 4 | Slightly uphill to Macajai (full ameneties). Then flat for 55 km w/ no shade to Boa Vista. Long & hot. |
285 | " | ab. 137 km north of Boa Vista | 136.96 | 18.8 | 3 | Mostly flat. Plae to camp @ 85 km, just after river. Snacks & water @ 60 km. Restaurant & hotel (30 reals/night) @ km. 102. More restaurants 5 & 35 km later. 2nd let me camp out back. |
286 | " | Santa Elena de Uairen, Venezuela | 103.18 | 15.7 | 5 | Flt @ easy for 35 km, then hills begin. Not extremely hard until km 70. Restaurant @ km 70. Long steep climb to border, then easy ride to Santa Elena. |
288 | " | Kama Falls | 117.89 | 17.4 | 3 | Hills all day. Small village @ 50 km, don't count on food. Big climbs @ 36 km & 50 km. Cabanas & camping @ Kama Falls. |
289 | " | Kilometro 88 | 119.03 | 18.3 | 2 | Rolling for 70 km. Snacks & water @ 25 km. Fast, twisting descent starts @ km. 75 right after Guardia Nacional checkpoint. Ab. 35 km downhill in all, w/ short steep climb in middle. |
290 | " | El Dorado | 88.96 | 19.2 | 2 | Gently rolling all day. |
291 | " | Guasipati | 126.94 | 19.1 | 2 | Gently rolling. A couple of longer hills closer to Guasipati. Very hot. |
292 | " | Upata | 104.18 | 19.9 | 2 | Rolling. 8 km hill @ km 80, then downhill. |
293 | " | Puerto Ordaz | 78.06 | 20.6 | 2 | Downhill & very easy to Ciudad Guayana. Climb into city, descend to river, then climb into Puerto Ordaz. |
294 | " | Ciudad Bolivar | 105.06 | 23.9 | 1 | Very gently rolling, almost flat. Strong tailwind all day. |
296 | " | El Tigre | 139.08 | 19.6 | 1 | May or may not be allowed to cycle across bridge. Generall flat, very boring. Restaurants @ km 40, 60, 66, 82 & 85 (all distances are from the bridge). |
297 | " | Anaco | 71.51 | 19 | 2 | Gently rolling for 30 km, then flat. Narrow road, usually no shoulder. Take freeway @ km 30, huge shoulder. |
298 | " | Barcelona | 89.74 | 21.1 | 1 | Gradual, easy hills. Good shoulder. Several restaurants. |
299 | " | Puerto La Cruz | 16.05 | 18.7 | 1 | Very urban. Lots of traffic. |
Note on Waimiri Atroari Indian Reserve:
Although I heard all sorts of contradicting rumours, it is forbidden to enter the reserve by bicycle. Just before the reserve (coming form the south) is a gas station (where they said I could camp) and two restaurants (one said I could camp there). I hitched a ride with a trucker who took me to a hotel just on the other side of the reserve. For more info on the reserve, contact FUNAI, Brazil's Indian Affairs Agency, who have an office in Manaus, but not in Presidente Figueiredo despite what you may hear.